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Traveling the oceans and waterways from Maine to Cuba, NE USA

Saturday, September 17, 2016

Narragansett Bay to Sandy Hook with lots of fun and sunshine in between

After an easy, but no sail, passage from Oak Bluffs, Martha's Vineyard to Portsmouth, Rhode Island, we made the decision to hole up in our old marina - New England Boatworks - for the uncertainty that was Hermine.  Greg's brother, Jay and nephew, Jack joined us on the passage and we shared a nice meal in Newport before they headed back home.  It was great to have them on board.

Jack, Jay and Greg
Though Hermine hung around longer than we would have liked, the impact on us was moderate.  The marina is well protected inside high earth berms and a high hill on the northeast side - just where it needed to be for that storm.  The wind was brisk, but we saw no more than 35 knots on our instruments.  The rain was almost inconsequential.  Much different than what Florida experienced.  We took the time to do tons of laundry, work on the perpetual refrigeration issue, and Greg was very busy keeping up with his work.

After the seas finally subsided, we headed south on Friday, September 9.  Light winds down the Bay gave way to brisk winds as we neared Point Judith.  We hopped into the Harbor of Refuge and made our way up into the Point Judith Pond - a quiet anchorage near the oyster beds.  We have gotten to a point where we try really hard not to bash into heavy seas with wind on our nose, and those were the conditions if we had kept going down Long Island Sound.  Instead we enjoyed an afternoon of sunshine on the hook.

Anchor up next morning, a nice ride in calm seas and sunshine brought us up the Mystic River into the sweet town of Mystic, Connecticut.  Mystic is a fun town to explore and the highlight is the Seaport Museum.  Though we have visited before, we decided to do so again.  One highlight was a lecture at the Nautical Instrument shop where the resident expert explained celestial navigation in a way that was very easy to follow.  Greg has taken courses in this topic (many years ago) and appreciated the explanation and banter this gentleman engaged in.  Greg said it was the best description of how this arcane science works that he's ever heard.

Later we had a short exchange with the blacksmith/foundry worker who represented the role these people had in the seaport years ago.  We learned about the irons and steels that were common then, and saw thousands of old tools they hoard!

We had an enlightening half hour presentation at the Planetarium.  We learned that we would be able to see Mars, Saturn and Venus in the early night sky - at least until that full moon took over - and where to look to identify them.  He discussed the importance of the North Star, several constellations, the Southern Cross, and explained more about lattitude and longitude, which was fun after the navigation expert gave us his basics on this.  We also got lucky to be in town on Sunday night, so hit the local Margarita's to watch the Patriot's win their season opener at Arizona.  Go Jimmy Garoppolo!

Early Monday, we headed out through the Railroad swing bridge (the line that runs all those commuters into NYC) and enjoyed another beautiful day on the water.  There is not much in the way of anchorages as you make your way down Long Island Sound.  We chose Milford Cove, just off Milford, Connecticut expecting the wind would move West for the evening.  Not to be.  We had a very rocky night until about 3 in the morning, when the wind finally subsided a bit.  Whew!

Dream Catcher sailing Long Island Sound
A short 18 miles later, we cruised into Oyster Bay, past Billy Joel's Tudor mansion and dropped the hook just off Sagamore Hill, Teddy Roosevelt's Summer home.  Oyster Bay is on the north side of Long Island about 15 miles north of City Island.  It is amazingly protected with lots of room to anchor and a view of beautiful summer homes.  After a quiet starry night we weighed anchor and motored the short distance to City Island where we would  anchor until morning to catch the tides through the East River.  A strong thunderstorm blew through just about the time Sharon was preparing dinner.  Always a tad scary when you are living through it, we were happy the anchor held and it was over in short order.  The rest of the evening was clear and splendid.  The lights on the Throgs Neck Bridge reminded us of the Newport, Rhode Island bridges wearing their "string of pearls".  Laguardia was buzzing with lights that from our distance reminded us of lightning bugs on a summer night.

Billy Joel's mansion in Oyster Bay,
soon to be another's as it is up for sale
Thursday morning dawned clear and sunny as we hauled anchor and motored our way toward New York City.  We could already see the tall buildings in lower Manhattan.  It is very important to time your travel when transiting the East River.  The currents can run up to 4 knots, especially through Hells Gate - thus the name!  It is also one of the most exciting journeys imaginable with so much to see and photograph.  We passed 78th Street where Courtney lived after college.  We saw the raised walkway where we had taken our pictures during her move-in!  Her apartment was only a half block away.

The boat floated under nine bridges, Throgs Neck, Whitestone, past Laguardia and Riker's Island, under a railroad bridge, then Hellgate, Queensboro, the Williamsburg Bridge, the Manhattan, and finally the Brooklyn Bridge.  The current through Hell's Gate increased our speed from 5 to 10 knots!  By the time we reached the end of the East River (the waterway connecting Long Island Sound with the Hudson River at the bottom of Manhattan) the captain had dodged several ferries, large motor vessels, numerous tourist harbor boats, coast guard speed demons and NYPD boats.  At last we reached lower Manhattan where there is a helipad where we saw a half dozen commuter helicopters buzz in and out, and two constantly busy ferry terminals.  Then we rounded the lower point of Manhattan and headed across the Hudson to Liberty Landing Marina.

Hellgate Bridge
Our knot meter (speedometer) left is how fast the boat is traveling over water,
the right is how fast the boat is moving over ground.  The difference represents
the amount of current pushing us along.
Queensboro Bridge
Radio City
Brooklyn Bridge with Freedom Tower behind
Staten Island Ferry Terminal
We chose to stay in a marina for one night so we could visit the 9-11 Memorial and play a little bit in the City.  Liberty Landing Marina is in Jersey City on the Western shore of the Hudson River.  From this vantage point the view of the city is amazing!  You can hop on a ferry for $6 (senior discount), and 15 minutes later get dropped off right at World Trade Center.  One thing NYC does well is move people.  Ferries, buses, trains...it is an amazing process to watch.

The 9-11 Memorial is beautiful and somber and brought back many memories of that awful time.  One cannot help being so sad all over again.  It is, however, a wonderful tribute to all who perished.  Even on the Jersey City side, there is a memorial called Empty Sky that focuses on the place where the towers once stood and honors the New Jersey residents who lost their lives that day.  Soaring high above the memorial is the new and beautiful Freedom Tower with its spire pointing toward the heavens.  The second tower is still under construction and is about 1/3 of the way done.  A gorgeous greenway, office and shopping space, and a yacht basin where large yachts were docked all occupy the area where there once was rubble.  It was wonderful to see how beautiful it all is today.  We finished the day with a wonderful meal at the Liberty House next to our marina where we watched a nearly full moon rise over the city's magnificent lights.

Freedom Tower
Empty Sky Memorial
View of the city from marina
View from our dinner table
The next morning we headed out and got some great shots of Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty then sailed south to Sandy Hook, New Jersey, dodging ferries, tankers and huge transport vessels.  New York Harbor is a busy and intimidating place where you feel as small as you feel in the open ocean.  Everything is larger than you!

Central Railroad of New Jersey, next stop after Ellis Island for immigrants
Ellis Island
Lady Liberty

We had planned to continue down the Jersey coast today, but winds and seas on our nose changed our minds.  So, we will be here in Sandy Hook, NJ for a couple days awaiting a better weather pattern.  Tomorrow, we plan to take the Seastreak back to the City and visit the Metropolitan Museum of Art, where Greg has never been and Sharon hasn't been for years.  We will let you know how our travel goes from here.

'Til next time -


1 comment:

Bill and Tricia said...

Good pictures! We loved cruising through NYC when we came through there a few years ago, but it was a Sunday and the boat chop was incredible! Look us up in Southport if you stop there on your way south.