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Traveling the oceans and waterways from Maine to Cuba, NE USA

Sunday, October 23, 2016

Southing again - Annapolis to Beaufort, North Carolina

We left Annapolis on a beautifully sunny day, with our friends on Neverland beating us out of the harbor.  As always, it is fun to see friends on the water and hear a familiar voice on the VHF radio.  Though the weather was sunny, there was very light wind, so we motored down the Chesapeake.  After an overnight stop in Solomon's Island, then another off the Great Wicomico River (south of the Potomac), both in Mill Creeks (we're now wondering how many Mill Creeks exist), we decided to take a side jaunt up the York River and visit Colonial Williamsburg.  Sharon lived there many moons ago and Greg had never been.  We found a quiet marina just south of Yorktown, called Wormley Creek Marina.  An Uber ride took us to the 18th Century where we spent the day gobbling up history.

The English Provincial Governor's Entry Foyer displaying his weapons
Beautiful details
Our guide
Woodwork in the Governor's Palace
The Palace
A protest over taxation decisions being made by Parliament
Sharon being punished....this happens all the time on the boat!
The Wren Building, William and Mary College
Continuing down the Bay, we made an overnight stop in Hampton City Marina (using a free coupon from the Annapolis Boat Show) and moved into the Intracoastal Waterway the next day.  Within the first hour, we noticed that the red "No Charge" light was illuminated at the ignition panel.  This means that the batteries are not charging.  Motoring is great for charging the batteries and heating the water.  Given that all the instruments are engaged and the frig continues to cycle on and off, we knew we needed to find the cause of this charging problem rather quickly.  So Greg sets to the task of trouble-shooting.  This means he checks all the stuff he already knows (loose or broken connections, loose belts) and when nothing indicates a problem, he hits the computer and walks step by step through the troubleshooting guide.  This can take a long time and someone needs to be at the helm constantly on the ICW.  Plus, it is impossible to check all trouble shooting items when the engine is running.  So, after we passed through Great Lock at mile 12, we pulled off and tied up to a dock so that Greg could continue his investigation.  Finally, it was determined that the alternator (only a year old and heavier duty than the old one) was at fault.  Fortunately, we kept the old one as a spare. We knew the batteries were powered up for the day ahead.  So, we took off from the lock and went to find an anchorage that would let us be still for the night so that Greg could swap the alternators.

But - before we found an anchorage, after just passing through the last opening bridge for the day's travel, we noticed a 38 foot sailboat on the side of the waterway where he shouldn't have been.  When queried, he told us he was stuck.  Being good cruisers we offered assistance.  We motored to the front of his boat, he tossed us a line, we cleated it to our stern and tried to pull him off.  Of course, we couldn't budge him and ended up getting stuck ourselves!  After several attempts to move, both of us just kept spinning on our keels.  Then, we thought, why don't we try to attach the halyard to his dingy and see if he could get Dream Catcher to heel and lift the keel enough to move off.  No dice.  Then, the idea was to attach both halyards to a line and crank them tight, allowing both boats to heel and potentially lift the keels.  As Sharon said - it's always a good idea until it becomes a bad idea.  No budging of either boat and now the halyards were stuck in a groove at the top of the mast, not able to ease and detach from one another.  Finally, a call was made to TowBoatUS.  By this time, it was 5pm.  Sunset is at 6:30pm and we find that the TowBoat will be here in about an hour and fifteen.  So, Greg went up the mast to see if he can dislodge the halyard before the TowBoat arrived, or cut it if necessary.  Fortunately, we have this cool mast climber rig that makes this task reasonably easy.  And all it took was a tug on the halyard from the top to dislodge it and allow us to bring it down and detach from the other boat.  Whew!

At about 6:15pm TowBoat shows up, easily pulls the other boat off with his 225 horsepower motor, switches his line to us and does the same.  Also fortunately, just a month or so ago, Greg called and upped our coverage with TowBoatUS to unlimited towing coverage.  It could have cost nearly $1000! Another Whew!

Finally, off we go in the dusk light, spotlight in Sharon's hand as she stands on the bow and helps to spot the occassional unlit daymarks and checks for logs floating in the water.  We traveled over an hour in the dark in very close surroundings. But, the navigation equipment, several lighted buoys and markers, and a careful lookout got us to our anchorage unharmed. We had the hook down by 8pm and all was well.  Another waterway adventure!

Hauling Higher Porpoise off the bottom
Eddie from Tow Boat US - our savior!
After a good night's sleep, Greg swapped the alternator for the good one, we were charging again and off we go down the waterway.  The folks from Higher Porpoise, the boat we tried to help, passed us the following morning while we were still at anchor and said they had a restful night as well.  The next few days would be long days, motoring along in the warm sunshine and 80 degree temps, sweet and quiet anchorages along the way and finally reaching Beaufort, North Carolina by Friday afternoon.
This stump came up with our anchor
in the Alligator River
We love this sweet town with its boardwalk right along the docks, fun shops and good restaurants.  Since the weather turned cold we ended up staying three days, enjoying the luxury of a heated cabin which we only have while plugged into shore power.  Beaufort is a popular stop along the east coast - for those doing the waterway and those going offshore.  In the three days we've been here we have seen boats from Nantucket, Jamestown, Rhode Island, London, North Palm Beach and Annapolis.  We all compare stories and share thoughts about our destinations.  It is a fun life.  Thanks for sharing it with us!

'Til next time -

Wednesday, October 12, 2016

Sandy Hook to Annapolis with lots of land time

After a spectacular full moon rise on September 16th, we spent three days hanging out in the anchorage at Sandy Hook, New Jersey.  While there, we took the Seastreak Ferry back into the city, had a yummy breakfast at Le Pain Quotidien, a sweet French bakery, visited the MET,  and finished the day with an adult beverage and a gorgeous charcuterie plate at the Pierre Hotel.  The Metropolitan Museum is an amazing and slightly overwhelming place.  We were there for several hours and only touched the surface.  We look forward to returning again.

Moonrise over Sandy Hook, NJ
Le Pain Quotidien Cafe upper East side
The MET
Finally, on September 20th, we fueled up and continued south.  We decided to just keep moving and since there was no wind and lots of clouds, we motored all the way down the Jersey shore, around Cape May during the night, into the Delaware Bay, and entered the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal by 1:30pm the following day.  After covering 174 miles we dropped the hook at 5pm just inside the Chesapeake at the mouth of the Sassafras River.  We were rewarded with a beautiful sunset and quiet evening (after all the fishermen went home).

The following day we motor-sailed to Annapolis.  By this time, we figured out that the work done and money spent on our refrigeration unit in Newport made no difference, so we placed a call to the owner of Sea Frost to find a tech in the area.  We got lucky and made an appointment with Nathan (son of the owner) the following week.  That meant a decision as to where to dock (or park for you landlubbers).  We decided to spring for a slip at Bert Jabin Yacht Yard - an iconic yard for sailors.  There must be over 500 boats here between the yard and the slips.  It is amazing.  And it is a very busy place.  The long walk to the heads and showers means you have to stay alert so as not to get picked off by a moving boat hanging in the straps of the travel lifts - there are three!  There are also cranes, pick ups and vendor vans allover this yard.  But, we were very lucky to be assigned to a slip far from this activity and near our good friends Pat and Eric Fulmer on Cutter Loose.

Dream Catcher tucked in Back Creek at Jabin Yacht Yard
The fun part about Annapolis, besides just being Annapolis, is that we have loads of sailing friends here; Fenwick Island is a couple of hours drive away, and we can retrieve Greg's car from Fenwick Island for the time we are here.  We enjoyed three weekends at Fenwick.  One with our friends Lori and Tom, intrepid drivers, who always seem to choose a rainy weekend with flooded roadways to join us in FI.  And one with Sharon's sister Pamela and dear friend Pat, who is really a sister, too.

While at Jabin's Yacht Yard we got lucky that the Patriots were playing Thursday night football.  We took the water taxi around to the Chart House in Eastport and the two TVs at the bar had the Orioles and Red Sox on one screen and the Patriots and Texans on the other.  How cool is that for a Boston sports fan?  The manager of the restaurant is from Lowell, Massachusetts AND Bill Belichik frequents the bar in summer!  Evidently his mother lives in town.  Motherlode for us New Englanders!  And both the Red Sox and Patriots won those games. Greg and Sharon had a very fun evening!

Nathan, the refrigerator tech, showed up the following day and repaired our refrigeration problem within a few hours.  It has been working great ever since!  Thanks Horton Marine Services! He even came back after a few days to check on things. Perfect!

We were invited to a lovely evening at our friends Jim and Cynthia's home, just across Back Creek from where we were docked, only 100 yards away.  They have a beautiful condo on the water with a  dock that keeps their Pacific Seacraft 34.  They spend about eight months a year on the boat in Florida, the Bahamas and the east coast.  In fact, we met them in Spanish Wells, Bahamas, in 2015. They are intrepid sailors and avid travelers.  Last summer they did a camping trip in the Southwestern US up to Colorado, visiting and camping in National Parks along the way.

We also visited the Naval Academy Museum, which is open to the public and very interesting.  Greg has been waiting for this for some time.  We visited seven years ago, but since that time it has been relocated and expanded in a new building.  We had a great time there learning how sailors and sailing ships dealt with the challenges of war and peace.

We had a great day at the Boat Show and saw friends Hayden and Radeen as well as other Island Packet owners.  We even got lucky to be able share some time with Eric and Pat from Cutter Loose.

Notre Dame vs Navy football
USNA Museum
Sharon, Jim and Cynthia
All in all, it has been a great few weeks with lots of social time, good weather between the storms, and good fun.  We have been safe and sound and positioned far enough north to be out of Hurricane Matthew's path.  Fortunately, all our friends are safe and sound with little damage to property.

Tomorrow, we continue south down the Chesapeake.  Jim and Cynthia on Neverland will be leaving in the morning, too.  We expect we'll be in touch along the way and possibly share cocktails and a dinner at anchor.   We plan to take our time.  But, we will be on the lookout!  With debris from Matthew, marina closures, and waterway issues looming in our path we will be extra cautious.

We will look forward to seeing friends along the way.

'Til next time -