On to Charleston

River Dunes was a welcome visit since we were able to plug the boat in and ensure we had a couple of warm nights.  Oriental is a pretty small town, but we shared a great meal at MandM's with our boat friends, other "Island Packeteers" traveling south.  After a couple days, we continued on the waterway and made our way to Beaufort, NC.  We enjoyed this little town immensely, both last Fall and this past Spring, and were happy to stop by again.  We tried the Blue Moon Bistro and were very impressed by the food and service at this chef-owned restaurant.  We both got some work done and headed out again onto the waterway a couple days later.

Our travels took us past the Marine Corps base Camp Lejeune.  All of a sudden, there was a huge helicopter 100 yards away, idling on land on the side of the waterway with a bunch of guys hanging out.  One of them, in his flight suit, walked straight into the water up to his neck!  What!  Then, he walked back out - guess he just needed to cool off?  Around the bend, we pulled into an anchorage with several other boats and dropped the hook for the night.  But, instead of being a nice quiet anchorage a military "Osprey" was doing touch and go maneuvers.  An Osprey is a plane with very large propellers on wings that tilt so that it can land and take off like a helicopter.  It was flying in, landing, hanging out, flying out, flying back in, hanging out, etc, etc, etc!  It stopped around 5pm and we figured they were done for the night, but it started up again around 9pm.  It was pretty loud and we hoped it would stop soon so we could sleep - which it eventually did.  We were familiar with the Osprey because a small squadron of them delivered President Obama to Martha's Vineyard directly over our boat in Lake Tashmoo last summer.

A more noisy "Osprey" then the bird

Up early the next morning, we continued on our way to Southport, NC.  By this time, we were traveling again with "Cutter Loose" and we anchored near one another in Dutchman's Creek.  (just south of Southport).  Again, up early and off to North Myrtle Beach and Barefoot Landing Marina.  Here there is a large outlet mall right at the docks, with a man-made lake and lots of shopping and restaurants.  We shared a great Italian meal at Umberto's.  Yum!

Off early the next morning, we enjoyed the ride through Myrtle Beach - golf heaven and beautiful homes lining the waterway.  Somewhere in here, Greg decided to re-program the "smart" regulator because he was not happy with the charge level from the engine's alternator to the batteries.  When he opened the compartment to do this, he found that saltwater had infiltrated this area (in the engine room).  The sound insulation was wet, the pads below the engine to catch any oil drips were soaked and you could see signs of salt dried on parts of the engine.  What!  The good news is that Greg has been a motor head (just like his brothers!) ever since he was a teenager, so he knows engines - which is great since Sharon is totally clueless in this department.  He finally found out that it was a tiny drip coming from a vacuum switch on a device called a "vented loop" and when the engine was revved beyond 2600 rpm's it became a quick drip.  He was able to do a temporary fix and immediately went online and located the manufacturer in Florida.  The owner is a boater and was very helpful.  He sent two new replacements for the vacuum switch that was bad (the piece of the vented loop), to arrive at the marina in Charleston in a few days, where we had plans to stay.

We navigated the Waccamaw River, which is very beautiful, and were deciding whether to stop in Georgetown or continue on.  We talked about going offshore from Georgetown to Charleston, but the weather was deteriorating and we were not comfortable with our engine situation, so we stayed inside.  Another beautiful anchorage at the South Santee River got us within a day of Charleston.

A Great Blue Heron and a Kingfisher - Ha!  What are the odds?

We got an early morning start from the Santee and motored along at a good pace keeping the engine running at 2500 rpm's, slightly slower than our normal 2700 RPMs (we didn't have the new part yet!)  We navigated the inlets and creeks as we got close to Isle of Palms and Sullivan's Island, just north of Charleston.  We were happy that we stayed inside as winds were up.  When we got to the Ben Sawyer Bridge - the last bridge that you have to wait for an opening before Charleston - the bridge tender wouldn't open due to winds that she was apparently clocking at 26 - 30 knots.  So - we hung out just north of the bridge awhile, kept calling and asking if she would open, kept getting a no, she couldn't open, and finally decided to drop the hook in a nearby creek.  That was interesting!  The currents are strong in that area with the five foot tidal range and the currents were fighting with the winds. Dream Catcher kept spinning in circles!  "Cutter Loose" was nearer the mouth of the creek and the wind was keeping it in place.  Before night fell, we decided to move Dream Catcher and went back out into the waterway and dropped the hook.  There is very little, if any, night traffic on the waterway, but we lit the cockpit up pretty brightly as a precaution. There were three other boats anchored with us, so we felt relatively safe for the night.  Plus, Greg has this cool anchor alarm app that will tell you if you are dragging anchor.  We both got a better sleep than expected.

A cool shot of ""Cutter Loose" at anchor

We saw three Bald Eagles this day!

The next morning, we had to wait until at least 9am to call the bridge since they stay closed for rush hour.  We got the same report - "No, sorry, I can't open due to high winds."  So - we relaxed, hung out, tried to get some work done and called her every hour.  Finally at 1:45pm, she called and announced, "To all the sailboats north of the Ben Sawyer Bridge, I will have an opening."  By this time, there were about 10 of us.  Of course, we had to scramble, stop what we were doing, get the anchor up in the rain and get close to the bridge opening.  Fifteen minutes later we were through the bridge and motored the last two miles up the harbor to Charleston Maritime Center.  We pulled in just at slack tide and tied up next to three more Island Packets.

After a boat wash and shower, we buddied up with Eric and Pat on "Cutter Loose" and headed into town for a long anticipated meal.  First night was a beer at Craftsman Kitchen and Tap House and then dinner at Hank's Seafood.  Second night was a treat at 167 Raw filled with oysters, crab claws and shrimp - washed down with some great beer!  Last night was a French/Sushi restaurant (crazy combination) called 39 Rue de Jean that was very good!  Only two nights left to eat our way around Charleston with friends.  It has been a blast!

Galesville, MD (Annapolis) to Oriental, NC

Boat Show weekend in Annapolis was very fun!  We reconnected with our sailing friends, Jim and Cynthia on Neverland, Eric and Pat on Cutter Loose, Hayden and Radeen on Island Spirit and met new folks as well.  We shared time with our land friend Pat and checked out a lot of gear and boat stuff.  Our favorite purchase was a set of pots made of silicone with a metal base to use on the stove. These collapse to become 2 inches high, and will better fit in the cabinet.  Greg also bought a bucket that collapses.  More space saved (and very cool stuff)!  See Nautical Scout cookware!

The warm trend we had for a couple days brought a way-too-close thunderstorm, rain and cooler weather.  Monday morning dawned sunny and we cast off the dock lines in Galesville (Annapolis suburb) and headed south down the Chesapeake Bay.  The first day was a long day of motoring as there was very light wind, right on our nose.  We left early so we could reach and enjoy a favorite anchorage in Mill Creek off the Great Wicomico River.  Seventy five miles later, we dropped the hook and settled in for a nice night.

Early the next morning, we pulled the hook up again, and headed out.  Seeing 12 knots on the windometer before we were out of the harbor, we decided to raise the main in preparation for a good sail.  As we motored out into the Bay, past the point of land that shielded us from the south, we felt the full force of the south wind - a steady 18-20 knots with higher gusts.  We unfurled the jib half way and moved along very quickly, but it became difficult to head in the direction we wanted - south.  So, we started the engine to give us a little push and we were able to point south.  This meant we sailed at hull speed, near 8 knots, with wind and three to five foot waves coming directly at us.  The apparent wind became 25 knots or more.  The waves became more of an obstacle.  The result was that we bashed into the chop for hours and saw more water over the cabin top than we ever have before.  In fact, the water splashed into the dorades (those funnel like things on top of the deck designed to bring fresh air into the cabin) and we ended up with a wet floor and slightly wet bed.  Yuk!  We bailed as soon as we could find a spot to hide and went into a calm bay.  Inside the bay you never would have guessed the wind was blowing and waves were crashing outside.  Whew!  A welcomed relief.

The next morning, it was back to calm waters and light winds.  We motored the rest of the way down the Chesapeake and grabbed a free dock for the night at Hampton Public Pier (thanks to our kind friend Radeen who nabbed a coupon for us).  We shared a beer with friends Eric and Pat at the Taphouse followed by a lovely meal with eight other Island Packet owners at Venture.  What fun!

Sunrise on Godfrey Bay
(remember you can click on all photos to enlarge)

A day on the Bay

Wolf Trap Light - kind of a funny looking light

Leaving Hampton the next morning we headed south down the Elizabeth River through Norfolk and onto the intracoastal waterway.  Within the first two miles we got stopped by two railroad bridges that are "usually open" with trains slowly crossing.  And so it begins.  The waterway is beautiful.   Challenges along the way include: assuring you pay attention all the time so as not to leave the channel and run aground, or run into anything else; negotiating bridges all along the route by speeding up or slowing down to meet their scheduled openings; slowing down so large motor yachts can pass you without sending you rocketing to shore from their wakes; and finding suitable anchorages along the way.

Cypress roots in the Waterway 

Birds!! We think Storm Petrels - click this one!

Just in case you think we are the only ones doing this!

Waiting for the train to get by

Friends on "Cutter Loose" dwarfed by carrier

Tonight, we are anchored off Buck Island in North Carolina, about 10 miles north of Albemarle Sound.  It is a quiet spot and we are the only ones here.  Our friends Pat and Eric are anchored on the south side of the island.  We will catch up with them on the water tomorrow morning for a long
70 mile day across the sound, down the Alligator River, through the Alligator/Pungo Canal and into another picturesque anchorage in the Pungo Creek.

Sunday we will do a short day and reach River Dunes in Oriental for two days, where we will meet up with three other Island Packets.  The added bonus is that we'll spend Sunday and Monday evenings there for the weather forecast of 40-45 degrees at night!  We'll have the benefit of heat while plugged in at the marina - excellent timing!

'Til next time -

Joaquin Scare and Time in Fenwick, DE

Two weeks on land, a hurricane, a nor'easter and lots of manual labor - what have you all been up to?

We had a plan to spend two weeks at Sharon's family beach house in Fenwick Island, DE before departing for our trip south this season. Time off the boat is nice once in awhile!  The treats include your own laundry and land showers (nice when it's not 90 degrees out). The Fenwick Island house even has an outside shower (in addition to the bathroom showers) which we always look forward to using.

We buttoned up the boat in Galesville, MD (near Annapolis), plugged in so the A/C dehumidifier would keep things dry, then we headed to the Delaware coast on the 23rd of September.  We had a few major projects to accomplish at the house, as well as sharing fun with family and friends.  But, a few days later we were back in Galesville, taking sails and canvas down, stowing dinghy and solar panels, and preparing to have Dream Catcher hauled.  We were very uneasy with the forecast of hurricane Joaquin, and didn't want to wait until the last minute to ask the boatyard to haul Dream Catcher (we waited too long once and the boat stayed in the water through another hurricane). We worked quickly and Dream Catcher soon sat happily on the hard while we hopped in the car and headed back to Fenwick - a bit tired and with slightly sore muscles.

This meant, however, that we could stop worrying about the boat, and shift our attention to the house.  The house had suffered in Hurricane Sandy and we are still picking up the pieces from half a foot of water in the lower level.  This time, there was talk of a 3 - 4 foot tidal surge in the bays, on which our back yard sits.  As the nor'easter brewed and Joaquin got closer we walked daily to see the ocean, which turned into raging waves lapping at the dunes, steady 20-30 knot winds with gusts over 50 (for four days straight), and a promise of a lot of rain.  Friends had planned to visit that Friday and actually drove down from upstate Delaware.  They had to divert inland when they hit Dewey Beach because Rte 1 was flooded north of Fenwick.  In spite of the weather we had a wonderful two days with them.

Fortunately, the high water level stayed about a foot below the lower level.  All we lost was a patch of roof shingles.  When the winds calmed enough we carried new shingles to the roof and replaced the lost ones.  This is Greg's least favorite thing to do - he hates working on a roof!  Whew!  But, we were much more fortunate than those in the Bahamas and the Carolinas.

Normally the beach is twice as wide, about 30 yards from the fences; here, the surf is pushing at the dune fence

We are fortunate to have pretty high dunes that are well planted and fenced three times,
but the ocean has moved a lot of sand up onto the dunes.

This is our backyard - the gray stone leads to a boat ramp (which is underwater here) into the lagoon
which takes us out to the Bay; Greg says Sharon is standing on sinking ground - he is right!

By Monday, we were back in Galesville, happy that Joaquin had taken a right turn, and we took the opportunity to polish and wax the hull and change the propeller shaft zinc.  The zinc is the sacrificial metal that corrodes instead of the propeller.  Normally, (in warm, clear water) Greg dives down to replace this, but this was a welcomed opportunity to be able to stand next to it and do it in 10 minutes instead of 30 (while trying to hold his breath with tools in one hand and the prop in the other!)  But, just as Greg wasn't thrilled with his roof work, polishing and waxing the hull are Sharon's least favorite boat chores.  Why?  Well, think about hand polishing, then hand waxing your car about five times.  That's about the surface area the boat's topsides are (waterline to deck).  So, a few hours of "wax on", "wax off", most of this at eye level or higher, and you'll understand what shoulder pain is! Greg said he could hear his joints grinding!  He's odd, because he actually likes this job!

We are floating once again and are getting ready to leave Monday morning to head to Florida.  So, while we're at the dock we are taking advantage of local markets and boat stores to prep.  Sharon hit the markets for paper goods and other needed items.  (Love the coffee selection at Fresh Market!) Greg filled our #2 propane tank today.  Then he dismantled the top of the windlass (the motor to haul the anchor...there will be a test!) to install a new control arm (a piece of stainless steel that guides the anchor chain into the anchor locker when retrieving the anchor - another test question!)  This little item is spring loaded (like a clothes pin spring, only much stronger), and you have to tension the spring while assembling it.  One part of the windlass wouldn't come loose, so he had to tension the spring and push it into the slots in a way that was not intended. The spring snapped back many times before he was able to get it into the correct location.  Four finger cuts later he succeeded.  Ouch!  But, it works!

One year ago we purchased a cellular amplifier to improve our cell reception, especially in remote areas.  We've been disappointed that it never seemed to work.  The antenna sits atop the mast (remember when we had the mast pulled?), so it should have a much better reach than a phone inside the boat.  So, Greg took all the components to Fenwick, set it up there, and got the tech support guys on the phone...for an hour.  The result was that the unit was bad!  So, ship the old one back, wait for the new one.... today Greg reassembled the components on the boat and, voila - five bars!  It works!  Cool!

Tonight, we are relaxing on board, plugged in with a little cabin heat if we want to keep the chill away.  Tomorrow, we head over to Annapolis to attend the boat show and see a bunch of sailing friends.  Sunday, we do the rental car shuffle (drive to Salisbury, pick up a rental, drive to Fenwick, leave our car in the garage plugged into a trickle charger, come back and drop rental in Annapolis, get cab to boat).  Monday morning, we head south.  It will be an interesting trip given the amount of water and flooding the middle Atlantic states have had.  We will need to watch out for debris all along the way.

We are excited to be on the water again!  Woohoo!  We look forward to our travels south.  Hope you will travel with us.