Snorkeling and anchoring in the Abacos

For those of you still dealing with less than 50 degrees and rainy days, it was 91 degrees here yesterday.  Yes, there was a strong 20-25 knot breeze - but it was hot!  Too windy and choppy to be out at anchor where we had been the previous night, so we moved to Marsh Harbor for the protection it offers. But, we couldn't even swim (we don't swim inside a harbor - water is too yucky)

This past week, we went back to the "Coral Garden" underwater park off Sandy Cay across from the Pelican Cays.  This is that beautiful area we mentioned in previous posts that has fabulous elk horn coral, brain coral, many large purple sea fans and lots of fish.  This time we saw a large school of Blue Tangs, Small Mouth Grunts, a 10" French Angelfish and at least three two-foot long Parrot fish!  At one point, Greg popped his head up and yelled at Sharon "Barracuda coming your way".  Sharon looked down and sure enough, a 30" Barracuda was headed in her direction.  It is a fabulous place to snorkel.  We have even figured out how to get back in the dingy after a snorkel.  It is not pretty, but with our fins giving us good leverage, we can both do it without each other's help.

The view above the water at Sandy Cay

Casuarina Trees on Sandy Cay

We returned to an anchorage we had tried before at the north end of Tilloo Cay.  It was a quiet night and by morning, we had floated up over our anchor.  Since you can see the bottom here, it was funny to see the chain and anchor off our port side.  We know this has happened to us on very quiet days in Newport Harbor, but you can't see bottom there, so you guess.

This photo was taken amidships on the port side

Greg needed to be where there were good connections for some business calls, so we headed off to Hopetown on Elbow Cay.  This is a sweet little town with a protected harbor.  It was settled by a widow from South Carolina and has pretty cottages of all colors and styles, beautiful beaches with massive coral reefs 30-50 feet offshore, fun restaurants and one of the last two remaining manned lighthouses in the world - this one illuminated by a kerosene torch!  

We enjoyed a walk around the town, dinner at Hopetown Lodge and a quiet night on a mooring.  The next day, we received an invitation from Hayden and Radeen on "Island Spirit" to an impromptu happy hour with other Island Packet owners.  It was great to meet Eric and Pat on "Cutter Loose" from Sewickley, PA, Jess and Robin on "Robinsong" from Niceville, FL, Art and Brenda on "Zippity Doo Dah" from Anchorage, AK and Bill and crew on "Jalon, Jalon" from Toronto.  So fun to hear of their travels and all the news.  And of course, great to catch up with Hayden and Radeen whom we have known for years.  

We have had many discussions about cultural differences in the world.  Bahamians, we have found, are mostly friendly, welcoming and happy.  Last week, we dined at "Wally's" in Marsh Harbour.  Our server, "Niana" hailed from Freeport and was effusive about her hometown and said we definitely had to visit.  When we had to ask her name a second time, she put here hand on her hip and said "Just think of Lady Di and make it an "N" instead of a "D"."  Cracked us up.  Then, she told us of an older couple she has been caring for.  They are millionaires, but she said, money isn't everything.  She has Alzheimer's and he has Cancer.  So - her advice is you have to LIVE!  Live your life!  

The weather will remain a bit unsettled over the next 4-5 days with a couple cold fronts running through the area.  This means that winds will clock around from West, through North, East, back to South and then will do it all over again a couple days later.  So - our plan is to pretty much stay in a harbor.  We are at Marsh right now, and will head to Treasure Cay tomorrow, abou tten miles north of here.  We hope that "Sanderling" and "Neverland" (who are there right now) will stick around to say hi.  Everyone is starting to prepare for the trip back to the States.  Some have left, some are waiting for the right weather window, others are making their way to points west so they are ready when the window comes.  

We will let you know as our plans gel regarding that trip.  Until then - LIVE!

NOTE: remember you can click on the photos to enlarge them

Harbour Island, Devil's Backbone, Glass Window and Passage to the Abacos

What a lovely week we have had!  We left Harbour Island, after spraying a great deal of salt off the boat and filling the water tanks - and have we mentioned you have to pay for water in the Bahamas?  This time it was .50 per gallon! That's $50 for 100 gallons of H2O! We motored over to another small island called Man Island and immediately jumped in the water to snorkel.  It seems everywhere we go, there is a patch of grass, a coral head or a reef that is very worth a look with mask and snorkel.  We have seen coral and plant life that is like none we have ever seen.  We have seen fish small and large and species we have not seen before.  It is a delight to swim in this giant aquarium.

In order to go from Spanish Town to Harbour Town or back (we went both ways) you either need to hire a pilot or take a big chance of hitting a hard coral shoal. There are three well-known pilots. We hired "Bandit" to pilot us back across what is referred to as the "Devil's Backbone."  He arrived at our boat at 6:50am (!) to take the helm.  He was cheerier on the return trip and willing to let us take a photo.  We decided he was a morning guy.  

Casuarina Trees on the nearby shore

Bandit

He left us on the south side of Spanish Wells and we continued over to a little island called Meeks Patch.  Greg had some work calls, so Sharon went snorkeling again.  Great schools of fish were hanging out down there.  After work, we continued on our way through Current Cut.  This is a cut through two islands that is quite narrow.  The current is strong and so you have to plan when to hit it so you have current running with you.  Of course, we got it wrong - even after checking several sources.  There are tide tables for Nassau and you have to calculate time differences for your location.   And we knew the tides in Spanish Wells and Harbor Town not too far away.  But, the tides thrgouh Current Cut were very different.  Getting wrong meant that we had five a knot current against us at one point (thus the name).  And the water was getting towards low tide, so Sharon stood on the bow while Greg steered to avoid shallows and coral heads.  We got through without a hitch, except our blood pressure may have suffered a bit.  On to "Glass Window" 15 more miles away,  so called as the ocean has worn a hole in the coral and rock so that you can see through it from Eleuthera Bank to the ocean.  A man-made bridge allows island residents and tourists to cross it by car.  We had another quiet anchorage with no other boats around.  Delightful!

Glass Window

The next morning, back we went the way we came, through Current Cut.  This time we got it right and had the current with us.  We saw 11 knots speed over ground.  Plus tide was high - a much better experience!

We headed back to the other side of Meeks Patch to avoid the south winds and swells.  This was yet another delightful anchorage with great snorkeling.  We took the dingy over to a little island and dropped the anchor and hopped out.  Beautiful plant life yet again and schools of all types of fish.  So fun!  We decided to head off to another island for the night in preparation for our sail to the Abacos.  There is a secluded harbor in Royal Island just west of Spanish Wells. We pulled in there mid-afternoon and dropped the hook.  There were five other boats there already, probably waiting to head out the next day, just like us.  

That beautiful blue water

Rain on the horizon 

The next morning, Greg was up at 6 and put the coffee on.  Sharon followed shortly after.  The hook was up and we were off by 6:45 as the light was coming up in the east.  Calm waters and little wind made it an easy entry through the harbor opening and an easy passage between two small islands to head into the deep ocean.  Turning north with less than 10 knots directly behind us, the engine pushed us along.  The lack of wind was kind of a drag, except it saved us from waves out of the south pushing against the large ocean swells coming from the northeast.  We pushed through ocean that was upwards of 10,000 feet deep!  Saw a lot of flying fish - which just make us laugh when they pop out of the water.  The ocean is a deep marine blue and you can see no land.  

75 miles later, we motored through the cut just north of Little Harbor, continued north and found an anchorage in the eastern lee of Great Abaco Island off Spencer Point.  After diving on the anchor - we do this all the time to assure it is set appropriately and fully - we snorkeled around looking for marine life.  We saw mostly just grassy areas, but there was one ledge that terraced over a sandy area where we saw a very large Nurse shark, sleeping under the ledge.  Sharon went to get Greg to show him and when we returned, the shark woke up and swam off.  We decided he was at least six feet long!  And a turtle swam out of the same area at the same time and he was about 18 inches in diameter!  

Back on board, we were doing a lot of rocking and rolling and decided we didn't want to stay for the night, so we brought the hook back up and motored over to Lynyard Cay.  Here we were protected from the ocean swells and had a nice southern breeze to keep us cool.  When Greg went to dive on the anchor, he said there were five, two foot long fish to accompany him on his journey.  

Click here for a link to a MAP of the Abacos.

Just north of this area is another land and sea park.  You can anchor nearby and then take the dingy over to moorings to snorkel on the reef.  We did this the next day.  We had a hard time setting the hook, but it finally dug in.  We took the dingy over and tied it to a mooring and were actually contemplating skipping it, due to the ocean swells, chop and wind.  Greg went in first and looked down and said - "It's worth it".  Sharon went in behind him and was totally astonished!  The water was 20 feet deep and then terraced up to the exposed coral.  It was like nothing we have ever seen.  Fabulous coral, plant life, and huge fish.  The fish were 2-3 times as big as what we have seen elsewhere.  More nurse sharks were lying around on the bottom and many of the fish just stare up at you as if to say - ok, what do you want?!  It was really, really cool!!  We didn't have enough time and plan to go back.  

After getting back to the "Mother Ship", we pulled up the hook and continued north to find a secluded spot at the north end of Tilloo Cay.  Again, we were very close to a couple coral rocks and saw schools of smaller fish.  Greg saw another lion fish that was larger than what we had seen before.  We have been wishing for days now that we had an underwater camera!  

Yesterday, we sailed around a couple sand banks and a couple islands, and came into Marsh Harbour to a marina.  We needed to do laundry and get some provisions.  And, the weather is pretty unsettled, so we figured it would be good to be in a marina.  It is nice to have the air-conditioning running to dry out the boat - linens, towels, and just everything.  Humidity has been high the last week or so.  Pretty much as soon as we finished tying up, the rain came in a nice deluge.  It helped Greg in his boat washing chore.  

Today is the first rainy day we have had since we have been here!  It rained hard again this morning and has been drizzling on and off this afternoon.  We got our laundry done and our groceries stashed and will probably head out tomorrow for Hopetown across the way.  We also want to get back for a good snorkel at the land and sea park.  

Til next time!

Eleuthera Delights

Late Friday afternoon, April 10, we pulled over to the fuel dock at Palm Cay Marina, filled the tanks and tied up, staging to leave early in the morning.  It was a rolly night, right near the entrance to the marina with easterly winds and waves.  In the morning, we did a quick email check using their WiFi and headed out.  The moderate to heavy chop convinced us to raise only the genoa so that Greg didn't have to go forward to raise the main.  Heading slightly northeast to Eleuthera, the wind out of the east/southeast was strong enough to push us at about 6 knots.  When it dropped to less than 12 knots, and the waves subsided a bit, we decided to raise the main to gather some speed.  It was a great point of sail and we paced along at 7+ knots for a couple of hours.  We headed through Fleeming Channel, a few miles northeast of Rose Island, which is northeast of Nassau Harbor, and continued east toward the town of Spanish Wells over 40 miles away.  It was a great sail.  We passed a commercial fishing boat towing his minions - small outboard motorboats with biminis pulled by the mother ship until needed. Apparently, they go after lobster.  We saw this when we crossed the bank some weeks ago.  They circle the lobster habitat, drop a swimmer in the water and somehow, gather the lobster and toss them on board (we are told they do not use a net).  These warm water lobsters do not have large claws like our favorite Maine lobster, so maybe they are easier to capture. Eleuthera is said to supply more than half the lobster in the Bahamas, much of it from Spanish Wells fishermen.

By late afternoon and what turned out to be over fifty miles of sailing we navigated our way into Spanish Wells' harbor area, skirting the shallows and then through a narrow channel and picked up a mooring ball, right next to our friends Roger and Chrisy on "Sanderling".  It was such a treat to see them since our last meeting in December when they passed through Vero Beach.  They have been all over the Exumas for the past three months and were headed north to the Abacos.  They hosted cocktails on board "Sanderling" for us and another couple.  Jim and Cynthia on "Neverland," were moored behind them, a boat we have often seen in waters around Annapolis.  Jim is from Delaware, so we swapped a few stories and compared notes and generally enjoyed the evening with all four folks.

The next morning, we took a walk down the main street of Spanish Wells - a small island and fishing village, just off the northwest tip of Eleuthera.  Then, we called "Bandit," to pilot us around the northern tip of Eleuthera through a heavily coral reefed area called the "Devil's Backbone."  He picked us up at the mooring around 11:45, hopped on our boat, tied his boat to ours and let it float behind and off we went.  This guy is pushing 70, loves his Spanish Wells home, has been a boat captain all his life and spent time all over the states.  His wife Carolyn baked a loaf of bread for us and he had his sandwich along for the ride.  It was strange to have someone else drive "Dream Catcher," but when we got into the thick of the coral reefs we were happy to have handed over the wheel.

It is tough to see from these photos, but there was a lot of coral and not a lot of water.  It was a great experience having him on board.  We had a couple hours to quiz and get to know a local a bit.  He took us all the way to a Harbour Island anchorage, just off Valentine's Marina and helped us anchor.  Then, he got back on his boat, gathered up his 200 feet or so of line, and headed back home.  We called him again this morning to schedule a ride back on Thursday.

Harbour Island is a delightful spot.  A small island off the east side of north Eleuthera, it is home and a second home to several wealthy folks from around the world.  It is noted to have been a haven for Loyalists, back in the 1700's and so there is a healthy mix of white and black Bahamians.  There are several very nice resorts and restaurants, as well as local souvenir shops and tiki bars.  The harbor is a mass of bright blue water and there is only small boat traffic, keeping the roll quite manageable.  The beaches on the ocean are known for their pink sand which is a result of finely broken coral mixing with the sand.  You can see the reefs just off the breakers only fifty yeards from the beach.  And, as is true in most of the tropics, we keep running into the natural giants of what we call houseplants at home. The spider plant below had to be 20 feet high with smaller houseplant size shoots on the trunks!

Spider Plant

It has been a great spot to spend a few days, with good phone and internet connections, ease of obtaining email, and making work calls.  We will head back across Devil's Backbone tomorrow and hang around the western side of Eleuthera for a few days.

A sandy path to the beach

The pink sand beach

First island we have heard and seen the requisite rooster 

A poinsettia growing outside the Batelco (Bahamas phone) store

NOTE: Remember, click on the photos to enlarge them.

A Haircut in Nassau for Easter

We hope everyone had a Happy Easter!  We rented a car in the afternoon and went exploring.  Found a great restaurant (of course!) on the western end, The Mahogany House, and enjoyed a nice meal.  The island is busy and very populated - probably one of the most densely populated of all the Bahama islands.  There are several very large resorts - of course, the most famous being Atlantis.  But others are springing up and development is strong here right now.  The marina we have been using as our home base is very nice and is quiet and removed from the fray of downtown.

They have a lovely restaurant, loaner cars and the staff are friendly and accommodating.  We have enjoyed using this as our base to allow us each to stay connected and work.  Greg had a full week at work, so it was good to be here where we can access wifi and phone.

We had a couple more repair projects this week that we just finished, as well as some boat chores.  We had to replace a head hose (not a pleasant job at all) and defrost the refrigerator - a chore when you have no alternative cooling area.  We plan to head out Saturday for Eleuthera.  There are several good anchorages and sights that we hope to take in.  We will be back to the marina in a week or so, unless connections are bad in Eleuthera, then back sooner.

We went into town yesterday to get some supplies from the marine store and Greg got a haircut.  Sharon went in with him and played a game on her phone.  He was so wishing he could take a picture of the posted price list.  It said - Haircut and Shave $17; Razor Work $5; Men's Haircut $12; Women's Haircut $12; Caucasian Haircut $12.  (We were uncertain why they had to itemize since they were mostly all $12)  Made us laugh anyway.  It was clearly a social event for most of the guys in there.  There was a lot of gabbing going on - political views being expounded upon, the state of Bahamian Government affairs, the situation with Hernandez (for you Patriot's fans) and whether he was a murderer or an accessory to murder.  It was 30 minutes of local fun!  Sharon's head was spinning when we left.

Not much else to tell.  Day after day of sunny and 85 degrees, with 75 degree nights.  Only the breeze changes - running from 12 knots to 30 knots, and either from the East or Southeast!  Tough to take we are here to tell you!

Andra in the Bahamas

This week held a visit from our good friend Andra from Boston.  She arrived early on the day that Sharon's sisters left, making it easy drop off and pick up.  The weather was sketchy though, so we stayed buttoned down in the marina while a midnight thunder storm gave the boat a good washing.  The next two days were unsettled, so we scoured Nassau for snorkel equipment for Andra, and spent the days enjoying the pool and beach at Palm Cay.

Monday, we headed southeast again to the Exuma Cays.  After a forty mile sail with 12 knots of wind off the port beam, we dropped the hook off the beach at Norman's Cay.  The sandy seabed offered good "grippage" for the CQR anchor and happily, the new windlass motor did its job.  (Greg celebrated!)  We enjoyed a swim and a bit of snorkeling and decided it was a perfect place to hang out for a few days.  Tuesday, we hopped in the dingy and headed south to see what the "Norman's Cay Beach Club" offered.  We happily discovered "MacDuff's" which Sharon had read about, but forgot its location.  MacDuff's is a lovely beach bar and restaurant that has recently reopened after being closed a couple years, with new finishes and furniture.  Unfortunately, it was closed on Tuesday, so we would have to return another time to enjoy the food.

The sunsets were the highlight of the evenings and the moon rise to follow, as it worked its way up to full.

Wednesday, we hauled anchor (well, really, we just turned on the switch and pressed the foot pedal.  We didn't even have to spray it down since the water is clear and the bottom sandy).  We headed south to Hawksbill Cay, second in the chain after the Exuma's Land and Sea Park northern border and one of the Cays we had visited with Sharon's sisters the week before.  This time, we chose the northern mooring area and slowly poked our way in close to shore.  One of the things you must learn in the Bahamas is how to read the water.  As you approach any anchorage, you will find coral heads, shallow water and shifting sand.  Once we find an area on the chart that we are comfortable with as an anchorage, someone stands on the bow and looks ahead for obvious coral heads, and shallow water.  It is tricky and takes practice, but so far, we are learning and having success.  That means, we haven't yet run aground, nor hit any coral (knocking on wood here).

We took the dingy to shore to walk on that sugary white sand and then walked into the water with our snorkel gear to explore the reefs near the beach.  Barracuda, reef fish of a variety, beautifully colored coral varieties and thousands of tiny jellyfish kept us busy.  Fish we have seen include yellow tail snapper, parrot fish, blue tangs, blue headed wrasse, sergeant majors, rock beauty, squirrel fish and many more.  We have not yet encountered any rays while snorkeling, but have seen several swimming around.  Greg spotted a Lion Fish (see this link for photos and description) highly venomous and destructive to the reefs.  It was a small one that we were able to view easily from above as it settled into and around the coral head.  It is a site to behold, quite beautiful!  We kept our distance.

Another beautiful day in paradise!

Thursday, we headed back to Norman's Cay to a different spot so we could have dinner at MacDuff's. Such a treat!  We met the few staff - a husband/wife couple and another guy, all from the Philippines.  Treats included a wonderful pina colada, a dark and stormy, fish tacos and yummy fries!  The bar is a gorgeous mahogany, there is a covered deck with cushy sofas and a beautifully weathered table filled with shells.  

The experience was delightful and we recommend it to anyone in the area!

Friday, we had a good sail back to Palm Cay with the wind at 12-15 knots at our back.  The waves pushed us and we settled in by mid-afternoon.  

The hardest thing to portray is the wide open space, the endless blue water and big sky.  Here is our best attempt.