The Vineyard, Nantucket and Boston, MA

What a delight to share a great few days with our friends Nancy and Ted.  Fabulous weather gave us a great sail from Edgartown, Martha's Vineyard to Nantucket where we enjoyed two days walking around town, hanging out on board, and sharing wonderful meals on the island.  In celebration of Nancy's 60th, we enjoyed dinner at Brant Point Grill and the next night at American Seasons.  Both fabulous meals and great companionship.

Passed this beautiful schooner on our way

Brant Point Light

Good friends Ted and Nancy

After another great sail back to Edgartown, we waved goodbye as they headed back to Cape Cod, where their car was parked, on the Falmouth Ferry.  With a wind shift to North, the anchorage at the Chappy Beach Club became uncomfortable, so we immediately headed back to Lake Tashmoo where we knew we would find quiet water.  Ah - relief!

Tashmoo is famous for poor internet and cellular access.  For those of you needing to get away from it all, especially for a week, this is sweet.  For us, who have come to rely on communication with everyone, it's more than a little frustrating.  So, as beautiful as Tashmooe is, we headed out the next morning across Vineyard Sound and through Woods Hole.

Woods Hole is a tight waterway between two bodies of land: the southern part of Cape Cod and the northern portion of the Elizabeth Islands (Naushon Island, in particular).  Every tide brings a new 10 feet of water through this small passage; and tide changes occur every six hours.  Tidal changes create currents.  In Woods Hole currents can run as fast as 4 knots.  If your boat motors at 6-7 knots you can imagine the challenge going two miles, effectively, at 2 knots; as opposed to 9 or 10 knots if you choose the right time.  It's important to know that tides and currents are well documented and available in books, online, and on our GPS/chartplotter.  But, for some reason we often hit Woods Hole at the wrong time. This time, we hit it right at slack (no current) and slid through behind the ferries with no effort.  We decided to duck into Hadley Harbor on Naushon Island, located near the west end of Woods Hole behind two smaller islands and protected from the currents.  This is an iconic harbor for sailors.  We enjoyed a Sunday afternoon on a free mooring and watched boats come and go.  It is a beautiful spot.

Hadley Harbor and Herreshoff H-12 1/2

A sailboat is made comfortable and livable partially through battery power.  With our new batteries and our solar panels, we can survive for days at anchor while the solar panels replenish our electric power.  We have been doing just that since July 12th when we left the Chesapeake.  However, as time goes by, it is often necessary and prudent to plug into shore power to bring the batteries back up to full again.  By August 20th, we were feeling the need to do this, so started to seek out a marina.  On the Vineyard and in Newport, fees for dockage are pretty high.  They charge by the foot, so at $5.00 per foot, it would cost us $200 per night, plus the meter for electric.  We began a more extensive search on Active Captain (a social media site for cruisers that rates and reviews marinas, anchorages, moorings, services, etc).  We found a brand new marina in Charlestown (the north end of Boston Harbor) that was $3 a foot and decided Boston was our next destination.

So off we went, North to the top of Buzzard's Bay and through the Cape Cod Canal.  When we popped out the other end, the wind was enough to throw out the jib and motorsail to Plymouth Harbor.  We found a quiet, out of the way spot to anchor, bothered only by the little boats out to find dinner.

Railroad Bridge at West end of Canal with Bourne Bridge in background

Mural along canal

Motoring underneath the Sagamore Bridge

Plymouth Light

Duxbury Pier Light

Once the fog lifted the next morning, we headed out of Plymouth and continued North to Boston.  Sailing into a city you love is thrilling.  To see it from the water is so different and wonderful.  We took hundreds of photos.  Here are a few.  (Click on any photo to make it larger)

Zakim Bridge

Boston Custom House

Rowe's Wharf and the Boston Harbor Hotel

Old and new Prudential buildings and John Hancock Tower

Boston Light

Right in the flight path

Duck Tour boat

We docked at Charlestown Marina, a beautiful new marina right in the heart of Charlestown and a mile walk from the North End.  We accomplished lots of chores while there and rejoiced in full batteries.  Laundry, food shopping, barber shop, propane tanks filled, washed boat, all topped off by gastro delight in the North End, two nights running.  A classic Italian scene and great meal at Antico Forno, followed by treats from Bova Bakery, and a more upscale Artu with more treats from Bova on night two.  We balanced the treats by walking to and from along Harbor Walk and the Charlestown Navy Yard (Old Ironsides).  We were able to see parts of the city we had never seen before and enjoyed it all immensely.

Friday, we pulled away from the dock by 7am and motored out of the Boston Harbor.  The wind was brisk enough to raise all the sails and we motorsailed East along the coast, passing Salem, Gloucester and Beverly, then around Rockport and Cape Ann with great views of Thacher Island.  We turned North and a bit West and headed straight to Portsmouth, NH.  Even in 200 feet of water, we had to dodge the lobster traps.  Then, it was past Isle of Shoals and into the Piscataqua River to grab a mooring ball at the Portsmouth Yacht Club.  The current in the river, as the 10 foot tide goes up and down, is rather brisk and there is a lot of boat traffic in and out of Portsmouth.  We were happy to be on a mooring in 25 feet of water with two knots of current racing by the hull (rather than our anchor).

Thacher Island

A Northern Gannet

Whaleback Light at entrance to Piscataqua River

We enjoyed a long walk into town, a visit from Greg's brother Jay and friend Kathryn, a yummy lunch at Popover's (yes, their popovers are amazing!) and a light dinner at Gas Light, a favorite haunt.  Sunday, we moved over to Wentworth Marina for a couple days to make it easy for the delivery guys to bring us our newly purchased mattress - Yippee!  Wentworth By the Sea Marina is a lovely spot, adjacent to the Wentworth By the Sea Hotel.  We had a deposit here for years, even before buying our boat, thinking it might be a good spot to keep the boat in the summer. It's picturesque, the people are great, and the amanities are first class. One great service that we sometimes find at marinas is a loaner car for transients (like us).  It was a real treat to learn they had two!  We immediately signed up to borrow one and headed off to the food markets and West Marine.

Today, day two here, we were fortunate to have friends Jim and Barbara join us for a lovely lunch at Lattitudes Restaurant overlooking the marina. Lobster salad, fried fish and great local beer - Sea Dog Sunfish!

Since we're at a dock here, we are "plugged in" to electricity and air-conditioning.  Plus our new mattress arrived today - wahoo!  We ditched the one that is as old as the boat (1995), along with the egg crate foam and memory foam we've added in our attempts to make the old one comfortable. But, our backs no longer agree. We'll let you know how we sleep tonight.  :)

Tomorrow, we begin to make our way back South - first Boston again, then on to the Cape, Islands or Newport.  'Til next time -

Newport and The Vineyard

We've had a couple weeks of fabulous weather and great fun.  Our land week in Massachusetts and New Hampshire was filled with great family visits, lots of annual doctor and dentist appointments and time with friends.  We did lot of running around and we wanted to do so much more, but appreciated the time we had there.  Thanks to Cathy and Alec, Nancy and Ted, and Greg's Mom, Shirley for hosting us, feeding us and listening to our stories.  We came back to the boat with so much stuff! You would have laughed when you saw our pile on the launch.

Tuesday, we had a great dinner in Newport at the Cooke House (one of our favorites and a very famous sailing bar - if you win the America's Cup, you drink for free for life) with our friend Andra, and on Wednesday, headed out into the ocean and took a left towards the Vineyard.  We had a rolly ride with waves larger than expected, so we cut up into Buzzard's Bay to the West of Cuttyhunk and through Quicks Hole.  This route also gave us two knots of favorable current, as we traveled up the western side of Martha's Vineyard.  Six hours later, we happily dropped the hook in Lake Tashmoo, an inland seawater pond, and proceeded to hang out there for the next week.  Lake Tashmoo is a favorite anchorage for those of us who like quiet, beautiful scenery, and protection from weather.  We took the dingy to shore most every day and walked the mile and a half to Vineyard Haven, rented bicycles for a 20 mile ride, did a bit of shopping and accomplished a ton of boat chores!  Two coats of varnish on all the outside wood, repaired a rip in the genoa, installed USB plugs in the aft stateroom, added extra insulation to the reefer (better known as a refrigerator), polished and waxed the cockpit, plus a ton of little things that we keep on our ongoing to do list.

Sharon repairing a tear in the genoa (the big foresail)

Welcome Wagon in Lake Tashmoo

Friday evening, we were hanging out before dinner and heard a series of loud helicopters moving over us towards the airport.  We knew it had to be the President who was starting his family vacation here that day.  Sure enough, 15 minutes later, they were going back the other way.  We read later in the local news that the first family arrived via Air Force One to Logan (Boston), then on Marine One to Martha's Vineyard.  We saw two regular helicopters (this so you don't know which he is in) and two of the V-22 Osprey, the ones that fly like planes with two heli rotors and land like helicopters.  It was pretty cool, except the internet and cellular signals have been a mess ever since his arrival.

Our last day in Tashmoo was a washout - it rained all day.  We did inside projects that day and we were appreciative that we have a full cockpit enclosure so that we could enjoy our "outside room" occasionally. Wednesday dawned another beauty, so we headed off to Edgartown.  Edgartown is at the opposite end of Martha's Vineyard from Lake Tashmoo.  So, we motored around to the other side of MV on a windless, but wonderfully, sunny day. Edgartown is a very busy tourist destination. Large yachts tend to anchor outside the main harbor as the main harbor is small and full of moorings for small and medium sized boats (like ours). But, over the years we've learned that the anchorage is much more scenic, quiet, and enjoyable than the harbor.  So, we always spend our time along the outer harbor at anchor with the larger boats.  We are within shouting (or public address system) range of the grill at the Chappaquidick Beach Club when someone's order is ready.  You can also hear the giggles and shouts of children sailing their little Optimists back and forth.  This is how every kid learns to sail (including ours in Rockport, MA).  It always makes us smile to see them.  We went for a two mile walk Wednesday, and about a five mile walk Thursday, all the way out to Atlantic Beach on the south side.  It was a lovely day for a walk.

The Optimists

We have been surrounded by vessels much larger than us.  A 108 foot sailing yacht, "Dancing Smartly" was here when we came in, and large motor yachts have been coming and going every day, staying at anchor one or two nights.  Most all the other sailboats anchored near us are larger and more lovely than ours.  Below are photos of "Magic" with an inflatable water slide, three jet skies and a few paddle boards stowed for the gang on board.  No lack of entertainment here. But, hey, an inflatable water slide on a yacht! Charterers!!! :)

West Chop Light - coming around northern tip of Martha's Vineyard

East Chop Light

Us and the big guys, the middle one has his jet skis all lined up for action

"Magic"

The inflatable slide

Click here for Superyacht Fan where you can look up details on these yachts.  They are large and luxurious.

Instead of playing on a slide today, we sanded and varnished more wood - this time inside, so we got to clean up all the sanding dust without a vacuum - woohoo!  Our vacuum runs on AC electrical current, which we have little of on the boat.  We are taking advantage of these sunny, dry days to accomplish chores in the morning and play in the afternoon.  Though we are in the "islands" we said the biggest difference between the New England Islands and the Bahamas is the lack of good snorkeling here.  So, Greg put his mask and fins on to see what he could see.  He could see his feet, but not much beyond that, so no real sights to report....except when we walked out to Atlantic Beach, we stopped by the south end of Katama Bay and saw a horseshoe crab swimming in the shallows.

We also learned there are at least half a dozen oyster farmers in Katama (pronounced ka-tay'-ma) Bay.  We tried some Thursday night from "Honeysuckle Farm" at Alchemy restaraunt (fab!).  Greg says they are the best he has ever had and the man has had some oysters!  Sharon tried one and thought it was pretty good, but she isn't the expert, Greg is.  So - try Katama Bay oysters if you ever get a chance, particularly Honeysuckle Farm oysters, if you ever see them.

There is a great bus system here on the Vineyard.  You can hop on the bus in any one of the towns and take it to any other town for $2.50, or ride all day for $8.  Saturday, we decided to check out the south side of the island and rode all the way out to Aquinnah (previously called Gay Head).  We were excited to see Gay Head Lighthouse has reopened to the public after being moved 130 feet from the cliff, where it was in danger of tumbling into the ocean.  We were able to hear the story from the two very informed and personable guides that welcomed us there.  A short hike to the top allowed some great photo opportunities and long-reaching views.  Even in the bright sunshine, the light is very bright as it spins on its rotation, red, then white.

Greg with the Red light shining on him!

Gay Head Cliffs with Quick's Hole (Elizabeth Islands) in the distance

Gay Head Lighthouse

Sunday we took the bus to W. Tisbury to a weekly Artisan's Fair.  It was filled with exceptionally talented artisans who live on-island and create wonderful things.  The jewelry designers were very good and tempted Sharon unmercifully.  We purchased a beautiful blue, glazed clay platter that had a unique fish design stamped into it.

Today (Monday) we decided it was time to do some laundry.  We schlepped four large laundry bags to the dingy dock, hired a cab (since there were four bags of laundry) to take Sharon the few miles to the Airport Laundromat.  Well - it turns out Monday is a big laundry day here.  The laundry was way too busy and full.  One load (not an oversized load either) cost $5.25 to wash.  We needed to do four loads.  The dryers were large and cost a quarter for every three minutes!  So, between the cab both ways and the laundry, we dropped $80 in order to do our own laundry.  Sheesh!  One of the disadvantages of living on a boat!  (Our friends Rick and Kay, who have a trawler, have a small combo washer/dryer aboard - we were very envious when we found that out).  But, it's always a joy to have clean clothes and towels.

Tomorrow, our friends Nancy and Ted join us on board.  We leave for Nantucket on Wednesday and will celebrate Nancy's 60th in one of her favorite places.

'Til next time -