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Traveling the oceans and waterways from Maine to Cuba, NE USA

Tuesday, February 16, 2016

Hawk Channel and arriving in Marathon


After leaving Matheson Marina in Coral Gables we had a delightful time hanging around Biscayne Bay and it's surrounding bays and islands.  After enjoying a quiet anchorage on the western side of Card Sound on our first evening we looked for a spot to protect us against a Northeast wind coming the next evening.  Traveling only 6 miles south, we nosed our way into shallow Barnes Sound and tucked up into the northeastern corner where we were the only ones around for miles and quite comfy.  Each day warmed a bit more and we enjoyed some bright sunshine by Friday.  

With the prediction of light and variable winds Friday night, we headed back north to Card Sound, east through Angelfish Creek (off the northern tip of Key Largo) and out into Hawk Channel and the Atlantic Ocean.  Hawk Channel is a deep-draft boat (that would be us) cruisers' highway along the eastern side of the Keys.  The barrier reef of coral protects the waters of Hawk Channel from the large sea swells and allows a lovely sail either north or south along the Keys in most weather.  We had two gorgeous days with bright blue skies, sunshine and light winds.  The first night we found a spot to anchor behind Rodriguez Key (just East of the southern tip of Key Largo) with protection from the northerlies and eastern sea swell.  It was delightful.  

Greg took the opportunity to replace the zinc.  For you non-boaters, the zinc is a hunk of sacrificial zinc that fastens around the propeller shaft. The metal is less noble than any other metal in the boat's drive train, including the prop, shaft, transmission and engine. So, when the sea water creates electrolysis (rust and corrosion) the least noble metal goes first. In this case it's the zinc, which saves all the other components from rust and corrosion.  A very important item on every boat! But, you have to change them about every six months....under water with mask, fins and snorkel. Greg actually likes this job as long as the water is clean and warm. Ahhh, Florida!

Transiting Angelfish Creek - just north of Key Largo
Look at the base of the mark's pole to see the current against us

The second day gave us 12 knots of wind on our starboard quarter (that's the back right hand side of the boat) We were able to unfurl the big genoa and the staysail and sail quietly down the channel.  Twice we were visited by dolphins. They were happy to see us and played around our little bow wake for awhile.  Because we were going so slowly, they just lazed about with us.  It was really fun!

Sailing Hawk Channel


Crossing under Channel Five bridge just north of Long Key, we headed West into Florida Bay, hoping to get some protection from the north and east winds that were coming that evening.  We found a small cove and tucked in among the hundreds of crab and lobster pots.  The nights have still been cool, so we hunker down inside while the cabin is still warm from cooking dinner.  This night, we didn't get tucked into the cove far enough and felt the waves and wind overnight quite a bit.  Plus, we dragged anchor a bit as well, awakening at 4 in the morning to a crab pot buoy banging against the side of the hull. Dragging anchor is a very big no-no. And we are very careful. But, in this case we dragged some distance and were able to see the scope of our error in the morning when we fired up the chart plotter with our track recorded from the previous day. The only good thing to say about this is that we anchored about a mile from land in any direction!

After messing with the anchor and the nearby annoying crab pots, we headed southeast down Florida Bay.  Once clear of the shallow channel and surrounding banks, we again pulled out the genoa and sailed downwind with a brisk 20 knots.  It was another sunny day and just beautiful.  Two loggerhead turtle sitings and lots of dolphin visits later, we dropped the hook just west of East Bahia Honda Key It felt like we were in the middle of nowhere.  With a very distant view of the "Seven Mile Bridge" we looked south and west and saw only tiny islands and water.  We were probably about seven miles from the bridge and the larger Keys. We positioned our boat SW of the little island to protect us from the evenings predicted NE 18 knot winds. It was a perfect spot to be away and a beautiful night.

A Loggerhead Turtle - once they see you, they dive deep - this was a lucky shot!
Note the water color change from Hawk Channel (above) to Florida Bay here.  Florida Bay is mostly grassy bottom, not sure if that is the reason for the color? 
The interesting thing about the Keys is that the water is mostly 2 to 10 feet deep.  Often it is not possible to snug up to the islands to anchor due to very shallow water surrounding them.  This last anchored night we were still 100 yards from the island. We brought the anchor up in the morning for what was to be the last time for awhile, hauled up the mainsail and let out half the genoa and headed Southeast, close-hauled (that's all sails pulled in tightly so you can sail as close to the wind as possible), toward the "Seven Mile Bridge".  It was a "brisk and windy" sail with lots of spray over the deck. Our sail plan was set for wind up to about 18 knots. But, we saw 22 and 23 knots often enough and the boat flew. After tacking a few times we finally dropped the sails and headed into Harbor Cay Club, our home for a few weeks in Marathon.

A party of several dock mates were there to assist us in docking maneuvers.  It was a friendly bunch, willing to have lines tossed over their shoulders and use their muscle to help us first dock bow in, then slowly turn us around so that our stern is now in - making it more comfortable to ride out the northerlies that will soon arrive.  After settling in, a much-needed two hour boat wash, three loads of laundry and a delightful land shower, we headed off on foot to "Porky's Bayside" right around the corner for some yummy barbecue!  This area is what we term "old Florida" and reminds us a lot of the Caribbean.  Low, flat buildings, lots of palm trees, orchids growing in Live Oak trees, and Tiki Huts and beach bars all around.  Should be fun to explore.

'Til next time -