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Traveling the oceans and waterways from Maine to Cuba, NE USA

Monday, August 17, 2015

Newport and The Vineyard

We've had a couple weeks of fabulous weather and great fun.  Our land week in Massachusetts and New Hampshire was filled with great family visits, lots of annual doctor and dentist appointments and time with friends.  We did lot of running around and we wanted to do so much more, but appreciated the time we had there.  Thanks to Cathy and Alec, Nancy and Ted, and Greg's Mom, Shirley for hosting us, feeding us and listening to our stories.  We came back to the boat with so much stuff! You would have laughed when you saw our pile on the launch.

Tuesday, we had a great dinner in Newport at the Cooke House (one of our favorites and a very famous sailing bar - if you win the America's Cup, you drink for free for life) with our friend Andra, and on Wednesday, headed out into the ocean and took a left towards the Vineyard.  We had a rolly ride with waves larger than expected, so we cut up into Buzzard's Bay to the West of Cuttyhunk and through Quicks Hole.  This route also gave us two knots of favorable current, as we traveled up the western side of Martha's Vineyard.  Six hours later, we happily dropped the hook in Lake Tashmoo, an inland seawater pond, and proceeded to hang out there for the next week.  Lake Tashmoo is a favorite anchorage for those of us who like quiet, beautiful scenery, and protection from weather.  We took the dingy to shore most every day and walked the mile and a half to Vineyard Haven, rented bicycles for a 20 mile ride, did a bit of shopping and accomplished a ton of boat chores!  Two coats of varnish on all the outside wood, repaired a rip in the genoa, installed USB plugs in the aft stateroom, added extra insulation to the reefer (better known as a refrigerator), polished and waxed the cockpit, plus a ton of little things that we keep on our ongoing to do list.

Sharon repairing a tear in the genoa (the big foresail)
Welcome Wagon in Lake Tashmoo
Friday evening, we were hanging out before dinner and heard a series of loud helicopters moving over us towards the airport.  We knew it had to be the President who was starting his family vacation here that day.  Sure enough, 15 minutes later, they were going back the other way.  We read later in the local news that the first family arrived via Air Force One to Logan (Boston), then on Marine One to Martha's Vineyard.  We saw two regular helicopters (this so you don't know which he is in) and two of the V-22 Osprey, the ones that fly like planes with two heli rotors and land like helicopters.  It was pretty cool, except the internet and cellular signals have been a mess ever since his arrival.

Our last day in Tashmoo was a washout - it rained all day.  We did inside projects that day and we were appreciative that we have a full cockpit enclosure so that we could enjoy our "outside room" occasionally. Wednesday dawned another beauty, so we headed off to Edgartown.  Edgartown is at the opposite end of Martha's Vineyard from Lake Tashmoo.  So, we motored around to the other side of MV on a windless, but wonderfully, sunny day. Edgartown is a very busy tourist destination. Large yachts tend to anchor outside the main harbor as the main harbor is small and full of moorings for small and medium sized boats (like ours). But, over the years we've learned that the anchorage is much more scenic, quiet, and enjoyable than the harbor.  So, we always spend our time along the outer harbor at anchor with the larger boats.  We are within shouting (or public address system) range of the grill at the Chappaquidick Beach Club when someone's order is ready.  You can also hear the giggles and shouts of children sailing their little Optimists back and forth.  This is how every kid learns to sail (including ours in Rockport, MA).  It always makes us smile to see them.  We went for a two mile walk Wednesday, and about a five mile walk Thursday, all the way out to Atlantic Beach on the south side.  It was a lovely day for a walk.

The Optimists
We have been surrounded by vessels much larger than us.  A 108 foot sailing yacht, "Dancing Smartly" was here when we came in, and large motor yachts have been coming and going every day, staying at anchor one or two nights.  Most all the other sailboats anchored near us are larger and more lovely than ours.  Below are photos of "Magic" with an inflatable water slide, three jet skies and a few paddle boards stowed for the gang on board.  No lack of entertainment here. But, hey, an inflatable water slide on a yacht! Charterers!!! :)

West Chop Light - coming around northern tip of Martha's Vineyard
East Chop Light
Us and the big guys, the middle one has his jet skis all lined up for action
"Magic"
The inflatable slide
Click here for Superyacht Fan where you can look up details on these yachts.  They are large and luxurious.

Instead of playing on a slide today, we sanded and varnished more wood - this time inside, so we got to clean up all the sanding dust without a vacuum - woohoo!  Our vacuum runs on AC electrical current, which we have little of on the boat.  We are taking advantage of these sunny, dry days to accomplish chores in the morning and play in the afternoon.  Though we are in the "islands" we said the biggest difference between the New England Islands and the Bahamas is the lack of good snorkeling here.  So, Greg put his mask and fins on to see what he could see.  He could see his feet, but not much beyond that, so no real sights to report....except when we walked out to Atlantic Beach, we stopped by the south end of Katama Bay and saw a horseshoe crab swimming in the shallows.

We also learned there are at least half a dozen oyster farmers in Katama (pronounced ka-tay'-ma) Bay.  We tried some Thursday night from "Honeysuckle Farm" at Alchemy restaraunt (fab!).  Greg says they are the best he has ever had and the man has had some oysters!  Sharon tried one and thought it was pretty good, but she isn't the expert, Greg is.  So - try Katama Bay oysters if you ever get a chance, particularly Honeysuckle Farm oysters, if you ever see them.

There is a great bus system here on the Vineyard.  You can hop on the bus in any one of the towns and take it to any other town for $2.50, or ride all day for $8.  Saturday, we decided to check out the south side of the island and rode all the way out to Aquinnah (previously called Gay Head).  We were excited to see Gay Head Lighthouse has reopened to the public after being moved 130 feet from the cliff, where it was in danger of tumbling into the ocean.  We were able to hear the story from the two very informed and personable guides that welcomed us there.  A short hike to the top allowed some great photo opportunities and long-reaching views.  Even in the bright sunshine, the light is very bright as it spins on its rotation, red, then white.

Greg with the Red light shining on him!
Gay Head Cliffs with Quick's Hole (Elizabeth Islands) in the distance
Gay Head Lighthouse
Sunday we took the bus to W. Tisbury to a weekly Artisan's Fair.  It was filled with exceptionally talented artisans who live on-island and create wonderful things.  The jewelry designers were very good and tempted Sharon unmercifully.  We purchased a beautiful blue, glazed clay platter that had a unique fish design stamped into it.

Today (Monday) we decided it was time to do some laundry.  We schlepped four large laundry bags to the dingy dock, hired a cab (since there were four bags of laundry) to take Sharon the few miles to the Airport Laundromat.  Well - it turns out Monday is a big laundry day here.  The laundry was way too busy and full.  One load (not an oversized load either) cost $5.25 to wash.  We needed to do four loads.  The dryers were large and cost a quarter for every three minutes!  So, between the cab both ways and the laundry, we dropped $80 in order to do our own laundry.  Sheesh!  One of the disadvantages of living on a boat!  (Our friends Rick and Kay, who have a trawler, have a small combo washer/dryer aboard - we were very envious when we found that out).  But, it's always a joy to have clean clothes and towels.

Tomorrow, our friends Nancy and Ted join us on board.  We leave for Nantucket on Wednesday and will celebrate Nancy's 60th in one of her favorite places.

'Til next time -

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