Castine to Mount Desert Island

On the morning of July 19th we left Castine's Smith Cove and motored out of the inlet into East Penobscot Bay. It was a lovely morning; sunny, a light breeze, calm water. Wind predictions were 15 - 20 knots out of the Northwest in the afternoon, building from 10-15 in the morning. Our plan was to motor into the wind for 20 minutes then turn south, fill the genoa (large forward sail) and enjoy a downwind sail to Islesboro - a long narrow group of islands in the middle of Penobscot bay. 

Once out of the inlet the winds were blowing 20-25 knots with gusts to 30 on our nose, running seas of 3-4 feet. We were bashing into them. At one point the speedometer read 1.4 (that is pretty much standing still). Not fun! After about 30 minutes, we decided to head to the northern shore of the bay, then run west along it (helping to reduce the wind a bit) and head into Belfast Harbor where we could grab a mooring in the protected lee shore. A few hours later, we were happy to be hanging on that mooring and taking a breath. We had a very salty boat, but once again we were settled in a calm harbor. 

The next morning the wind was what we had expected the prior day, so we enjoyed that delightful downwind ride we had planned to do the day before. 

Our neighbors on the last morning in Castine

Heritage anchoring near us in the rain in Castine

Islesboro is in the middle of Penobscot Bay and served by a ferry from Lincolnville on the bay's western shore.  After sailing past Isleboro's ferry dock and turning south, we tucked into Cradle Cove and dropped the hook. A dingy ride to shore and a walk up and down the hills allowed us to do a bit of exploring. 

We stopped into a very nice little gift shop and chatted with the shop keeper. She is a year round resident on Islesboro, one of about 500. She said she pretty much knows all of those 500 people. The population swells to 3000 in summer. But as we have noted so far this season, things are quiet, and it seems there are fewer people about than past years. It was warm! While it hasn't reached 90 in these parts locals are still complaining about the heat which has been in the mid-80's many days. Fortunately, it cools to mid-60's most nights.

Map of Penobscot Bay

The next day, we weighed anchor and headed south and east toward Camden. What we found this time after leaving the harbor was very dense fog! It was only a five mile trip and we had decided not to raise the sails. Activating radar and fog horn we picked our way through the numerous lobster pots and across the bay. Fortunately, visibility improved once we entered the harbor. 

Ducklings in Camden Harbor

Walking Camden

We have spent a lot of time in Camden this summer due to hosting guests onboard or meeting friends. We were excited to catch up with Jim and Cynthia onboard Neverland there. We had time on land for long walks, a bit of shopping, a night out at a new restaurant Salt Wharf, several loads of laundry, and accomplished a few large maintenance projects. After a few days it was time to move on. We said goodbye to Jim and Cynthia and headed East. 

In light winds, we motored out of the harbor and around the southern tip of Isleboro, turned north and then east again past the iconic lobstermen's town of Stonington - picking our way through islands and, of course, lobster pots all morning.

Our destination a favorite anchorage, Pickering Cove. It's always so quiet and peaceful there. When entering these remote anchorages we are often greeted by the sweet faces of seals checking to see who has arrived. Sharon keeps saying she is going to sit in the cockpit with her camera at the ready so she can get a shot of these shy mammals. Her patience and timing haven't worked out yet, but she'll keep trying!

Pickering Cove

Continuing our journey east the next day, we headed across Jericho Bay, again through islands and the morass of lobster pots that is northeast Maine, around Bass Harbor Head and north into Southwest Harbor on Mount Desert Island. We grabbed a mooring at Hinckley Marine, dropped the dingy and headed ashore. Our goal was lobster! 

We walked over two miles along the beautiful harbor shore completely to the other side where we found Beal's Lobster pound. Two 2lb lobsters, a pound of steamers and two Allagash Whites (our beer of preference up here) later, we headed back around to the mooring. A good five miles for the day and a fabulous lunch! 

The remains 

Bear Island Light just outside Northeast Harbor

Our next hop was to Bar Harbor. Greg hadn't been there in 30 years, so he was looking forward to exploring.  We checked out a few of the many shops in town and had a really excellent meal at Havana on our first night.  Trekking is a big deal on Mt Desert Island due to the natural beauty the terrain and ocean provide. We took advantage the next day walking over 7 miles on marked paths through woods and shore. All beautiful.

Unlike Isleboro and some other smaller towns along Maine's coast, Bar Harbor this summer is VERY busy. Two cruise ships were anchored in the harbor when we arrived. Their little people transport pods ran constantly to and from shore off our stern.

There are several large harbor tour boats ("pay-for-boats"as Greg calls them) and of course the requisite lobster boats, all filling the busy harbor. It was fun to check out the town, but it was a bit of culture shock - even Camden hasn't been this busy. 

The Margaret Todd and Dream Catcher

Sunset

Scenes along our walk

Dream Catcher

Acadia National Park covers most of Mount Desert Island, includes most of the Schoodic Peninsula across Frenchman Bay from Mount Desert Island, and all of Isle au Haut. We've explored much of it over the years and are looking forward to more.

Leaving the hustle and bustle behind once again, we headed further down-east. 

One great benefit of sailing down-east is that you have a prevailing Southwest wind. We used this wind today deploying the main and Genoa and headed through Frenchman Bay. After rounding Schoodic Point we turned north and headed toward Prospect Harbor, our chosen destination. But, once the harbor was within sight we could see only lobster boats and they filled the small harbor. No room for a cruising sailboat! 

We needed an anchorage to get out of the sea swells if we wanted a reasonably pleasant night. So, turning around, we poked our way down the eastern shore of the peninsula until we found a place we liked. Slowly making our way around the ledges and shallows we crept into Birch Harbor, a small crescent bay. Finding a spot that assured enough depth for safety in an eleven foot tide, we dropped the hook. Our anchoring maneuvers include Greg at the bow handling the anchor while Sharon drives the boat. Greg can pretty much tell within short order whether the anchor is going to set properly. This time, he could see the chain skittering on the roller as Sharon backed the boat up to set the anchor. Sharon could also feel it skipping over what was obviously a large, sheer rock bottom. After backing down over a hundred yards into the middle of the small bay it finally bit enough for us to feel safe. But, to be careful we set anchor alarms on Greg's cell phone app and our instruments so that, if we did move during the night, we'd be notified and could respond before trouble occurred.

We chose Birch Harbor for its lee shore - wind was off the land keeping the velocity such that we had a quiet night with no incidents. But, once we settled we were inundated with hundreds of flies! This forced us to head below sooner than usual and screen every port and companionway for the rest of the evening. Not the best anchorage, but safe and pleasant enough.

Egg Rock Light, Frenchman Bay

Views from the boat

Petite Manan Ledge Light

We headed out early the next morning in bright sunshine. This made it very tricky to see the thousands of lobster pots on the water as we traveled east into the rising sun. While this area of Maine is simply stunning in its beauty, the joy of sailing is sometimes moderated greatly by the constant vigilance needed to assure you don't wind 200 feet of lobster pot line around your propeller. This is a serious issue. Imagine losing power several miles offshore, tethered to a lobster pot dragging behind, as the wind and waves push you along with no easy remedy short of climbing into the 55 degree water with knife in hand!! Our friend on Neverland, Cynthia, told us that the further east you go the more pots you'll find. She was right! After an hour or so it just wasn't fun, so we turned west and headed for Winter Harbor, which has been on our list for this summer. 

We've heard a lot about Winter Harbor and often see boats with this hailing port on their stern. We found a mooring with Winter Harbor Yacht Club. So nice, what a beautiful place and what welcoming people. The young lady who drove the launch came to get us with our bicycles and brought us to the club house. We cycled to Schoodic Peninsula, then headed out to the point. It was a beautiful ride filled with lots of ups and downs we don't experience in flat Florida or Delaware. The road lead us to the Schoodic Institute - a science and educational organization in Acadia National Park. After a fifteen mile ride and a full day we welcomed the quiet mooring in this quaint, protected harbor at day's end.

Schoodic Institute

Eiders

In the morning, after waiting for the fog to lift, we headed into the club's dock to fill the water tanks. While there, we chatted it up with the team at the yacht club, watched the kids learning to handle their Optimists (training boats for young sailors) and got a couple of recommendations for anchorages in the adjoining bays. With light winds, we motored out of the harbor, up Frenchman Bay into Flanders Bay off the town of Sorrento. This is a very large bay that is enclosed by islands, allowing relief from sea swells and winds from all directions. We found a beautiful anchorage empty of pots and any other other boats at the northeast end behind Treasure Island (Thank you Jim at Winter Harbor). 

To our surprise we saw three cell towers in the distance! With unusually good cell signal we decided to finally get this blog entry written, so here we sit - writing and doing boat maintenance projects - you decide who is doing which!

'Til next time - 

Back onboard Summer 2022

Another year - COVID continues - and here we are, lucky enough to be onboard Dream Catcher once again. So happy to be here! 

We had a really beautiful winter in Florida welcoming Max, another new grandchild into the world; and spending lots of time with Penny (grandchild #1). Paolo and Courtney are now fully indoctrinated into parenthood! And we're thrilled to be indoctrinated into grandparenthood! Both have their special attributes and we all are in love with these two new additions to our family. 

Our first stop after leaving Florida was Fenwick Island, Delaware, where we were able to share time with friends and family. We sampled a few restaurants ~ very carefully! Sharon and her sister, Pam, enjoyed daily walks along Bunting Ave and got 4 - 5 miles of tracking in most days. They value this time together. While they walked Greg was back on his bike doing a 20 mile loop or a five mile beach walk. All so good! We were also able to enjoy some quality golf at four of the local courses, one directly on Assawoman Bay and another on Assateague Sound. Pam joined us for two  She has a great swing! And we got in a visit up state to friends Lori and Tom and a wonderful excursion to Longwood Gardens. So fun!

After a month in Fenwick Island we packed again to catch a flight to Boston, then a puddle jumper on Cape Air to Owl's Head Airport adjacent to Rockland, Maine, where we left Dream Catcher last Fall.

The boat had been on the hard for the winter ~ in and out of covered storage due to a couple of projects we commissioned: a new 4" exhaust hose from the engine to the transom and a new prop shaft, cutlass bearing and stuffing box. Ka-ching, ka-ching! Both were completed and the results were good.

We kept the boat at Safe Harbor Rockland. Anyone on the water on the east coast knows how Safe Harbor has been buying many yards and marinas! We have to say that our experience here has been mostly very positive. The negative has been due to work done over the winter that was mostly contracted out but managed by Safe Harbor.  Still working on the resolution to these items...

Well, we arrived at the marina and the first chore was CLEAN UP! We had to organize and clear the surface of the berth so we had a place to sleep (sounds easy - but not so much). But, after four days of heavy lifting (yeah, four full days) we finally felt like things were mostly back in order. 

Here are a few shots of our trip on Cape Air to Rockland:

Coming into Rockland Harbor

With the crucial jobs completed, we were finally able to leave the dock. We crossed Penobscot Bay from Rockland to North Haven for a perfect sail under the power of our 130 genoa. This sail was fabulous because we not only sailed the bay for a mini-shake down, but we sailed three miles through Fox Island Thoroughfare as we approached our anchorage. Perfect wind, perfect everything!

Perry Creek was our anchorage, a beautiful, remote little inlet on the north side of Vinalhaven adjacent to North Haven. Our entertainment was watching the seals and the local bald eagle. Heaven! Our July 4th fireworks were the starry night sans city lighting. Nature's glamour undisturbed.

We stayed two days here working to get Dream Catcher to the standards we want: polishing the stainless, waxing the fiberglass cockpit to receive friends soon, organizing a bit more...and enjoying the peace. 

After a couple of days we were off to Camden, where we found a mooring. And, needing some cardio after a few boat days, we walked miles through Camden's beautiful neighborhoods, got the exercise we wanted, and wandered the various shops and markets. After two nights in Camden we headed south to Rockland to gather our dear friends Nancy and Ted, who would share our home for a few days. It's always a treat to have these folks aboard. We have spent many mutual birthdays together on Dream Catcher - Sharon's and Ted's birthdays are within a day - Nantucket, Martha's Vineyard, Penobscot Bay. Each one has been a warm and wonderful time that we are so grateful for.

Ted and Nancy arrived this time with Damariscotta oysters, beautiful cooked shrimp, and White Sturgeon caviar!  When we called to tell them we couldn't get into the dock early enough for their arrival, they even shopped our grocery list for us! Above and beyond for sure!

Scenes from our walk in Camden

Camden Harbor 

Primo in Rockland has built a reputation for over 20 years as a gourmet farm to table restaurant. Melissa Kelly has won James Beard awards and many others, but none of us have been able to snag a reservation until now. This place is highly recommended for anyone traveling in the area. Their gardens alone are worth the visit. We had a fabulous time!

Early next morning we headed back north to Camden. That night we splurged again at Natalie's, another of Maine's high gourmet spots. We did a bit of joyous celebrating together for Ted's and Sharon's birthdays. So good!

Sunday, we headed out to Perry Creek again where we enjoyed a seafood smorgasbord that we all contributed to. Wow! Yum!

Seafood Smorgasbord

Greg, Nancy, Ted and Sharon

Alas, our time together came to an end and we dropped them off in Rockland. Before they departed we enjoyed a nice lunch of steamers and chowder at Archer's on the pier and we said goodbye ~ until next time. 

We love the team at Safe Harbor Rockland and are always treated so well. The marina offers beautiful restrooms, complimentary laundry facilities, and a loaner car. These amenities are so valuable to cruisers. The car is especially helpful when provisioning the boat or finding needed parts and supplies. We hung around the dock for a couple days, again working through boat projects: A/C valve replacement, fresh water pump replacement, water infiltration clean-up! Thanks Greg for having the knowledge to accomplish all of these tasks! 

We also finally got a chance to visit the Farnsworth Art Museum in Rockland. This is very worthwhile if you are in the area. They have a great collection of Wyeth paintings - all three Wyeths - N.C., Andrew, and Jamie. A treat for sure. 

A Sailor's Dream model ship c. 1880-1910

Fair Wind by Andrew Wyeth

Finally, after all of our grocery and bagel runs, we headed North to Castine. It was a light wind day so it was a 25 mile motor up the West side of the Penobscot Bay. Castine offers a protected bay that is considered the best hurricane hole in the state of Maine. We dropped the hook by the southern shore and waited for the predicted storms to roll by (which actually happened, they rolled north of us with only a few sprinkles and distant thunder.) 

Yesterday, we took the dinghy into town for a long walk - except - about half way to town (which is about 2 miles from our anchorage) the dingy motor petered out. Greg went to work (he is a motor-head for sure) to no avail, in the ten minutes he worked the motor still was dead. Fortunately, another sailor was heading to his boat in a large inflatable with a 60hp motor and offered us a tow back to Dream Catcher. Thanks so much Steve on Northern Lights! 

After replacing the fuel filter the motor came to life. We headed in again - made it to the town dock and as Sharon was stepping off the dingy, she lost her balance and ended up in the drink! Yikes! Fortunately, she was fine - just wet - and her phone was in her pocket. Good grief! So - back we went to the big boat, after grabbing some gasoline. 

After a clean-up, we headed back into town. The engine quit again! OMG! Thankfully, we were close enough to paddle to the dock. Greg went to work again and after about 15 minutes got the motor to run. Finally, we tied up and got our walk - up and down hills and over dale, with a bit of ice cream as a reward. One of the things cruisers know is that one must be very disciplined onboard to get cardio. A good walk is so welcomed after a couple of days aboard. We made it back to the big boat yesterday afternoon and enjoyed another peaceful night on the hook.

Bowdoin - a teaching schooner at the Maine Maritime Academy

Scenes along our Castine walk

Dice Head Light

The views from shore

Northern Lights - our savior

Today, Greg pulled the outboard apart to be sure we wouldn't have this problem nagging us. We dumped the old fuel and got new. He cleaned the carb jets, air intake, etc. So far, these steps seem to have solved the problem. We took another walk around town today and stopped into the Visitor's Center and the Historical Society. There is a great historical retrospective about the battle here in 1779, considered one of the worst military losses next to Pearl Harbor. And there was a special exhibit by a sculptor who lived in town. Very cool.

More scenes from Castine

The Prophet by Clark Fitz-Gerald

The Unitarian Universalist Church steeple

Not sure where our next port will be, but we look forward to it. Thanks for checking in on us.

'Til next time.