Our reservation on a mooring in Edgartown Harbor was calling. The next morning, we headed out of Oak Bluffs dodging the three or four ferry boats as we motored around the bend into Edgartown harbor. This is Greg's favorite town on the Vineyard. As we visited the three major towns, we were struck by how unique each one is, and how fortunate we are to be able to spend time in each one. Vineyard Haven has great shops, an abundance of eateries, a fabulous fish/seafood market... all an easy walk from the dingy dock. Oak Bluffs is more bohemian, has rowdy restaurants all around the harbor, crowded thoroughfares filled with shops, ice cream stands, eateries, an iconic carousel and night clubs. Edgartown is a bit more fru-fru... fancier shops, high end restaurants, galleries and the yacht club center stage in the inner harbor. One cool thing about Edgartown is that the harbor fairway offers a parade of gorgeous boats all day long. And mega-yachts anchor in the outer harbor along the beach - the largest one was over 400 feet long! Sheesh! In any case, it's a great spot for boat watching.
Our time in Edgartown included great meals at
Alchemy,
l'etoile, and the
Seafood Shanty, walks to the grocery store, gourmet markets, Morning Glory Farms for vegetables and
Granite Hardware! (this is the coolest hardware/department store - if you are ever in Edgartown, you must go!) We took the bus (you can ride all day for $5 if you are over 65) out to Chilmark and hit the Artisan Fair. Sharon has always had a love of pottery and since living in Vero Beach, she has been taking classes (those potters make it look easy and it's not!). We stopped by a favorite pottery booth, Creney Ceramics, and had a great chat with Frank Creney, who has been creating creative pottery most of his life. We had to buy a piece! We also visited the
Field Gallery which is a favorite stop.
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Outdoor Sculpture at The Field Gallery |
Last winter, as we were considering our itinerary for this summer, Greg ran across a unique golf course on the island of Chappaquiddick. It's called
The Royal and Ancient Chappaquiddick Links (tongue in cheek for you golfers). It's a nine hole par 3-4 course on the furthest leg of the island along the beach. Greg had absolutely decided we were going to play there. So, to prepare, we took the dingy over to the north shore of the harbor and walked the 2 miles to check it out. It is a very casual, quite popular nine holes with stunning views, lots of trees and very rough fairways and greens. It's also a spot not to be missed for any serious golfer in the area. We spoke with the crew to get an idea of how and when we could play the following day. Brad, the manager and caretaker, offered us a ride to the club from the ferry dock the next day! Their SUV met us at the ferry dock the following day and brought us back after our round. Super nice!
Chappy is a no-tee-time, walk-on kind of place. So, when we arrived we paid the fees, grabbed a pull cart and headed over to the first tee box. What fun! We fully intended to only play nine, but since it took us only an hour to do that, and they said "play as many rounds as you like" we went around again. An experience we'll never forget!
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All above from The Royal and Ancient Links on Chappaquiddick |
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Jellyfish - Edgartown Harbor |
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Herreschoff 12 1/2's - Edgartown Harbor |
We think everyone agrees the weather has been so weird this year. Lots of rain, lots of heat and lots of humidity in the northeast - as well as the rest of the east coast.
We did get lucky and had enough sunny, dry days while in Edgartown to get some teak done. We scraped, sanded and varnished Dream Catcher's eyebrows and hand-holds on the cabin top. The toe rails were done last fall. The remaining exterior woodwork is the cockpit, which is on our agenda for next summer. She's starting to look much happier with the fawning attention she has received this summer.
But, weather demanded our attention - not only the frequent wet weather, but wind. On a cloudy Monday, one day before a strong weather system was expected, we headed out of the harbor and motored our way back to Newport. While we have lamented the fact that we have not had enough pleasant sailing days this summer, we prefer to travel the ocean on a day of lighter winds and calmer seas rather than raging wind on our nose and sea swells. Buzzards Bay, the largest body of water on this trip, is usually fraught with a strong southwest wind, which would be on our nose. Next day we learned that a 50 ft motor yacht came in from the vineyard, the same course we had done, but plowed through 8 foot seas the entire way. No thank you!
Our trip was uneventful and we pulled into Newport at 3pm, found a good location in the anchorage and dropped the hook. By that night the wind was up to a steady 30 with gusts to 45. A sailboat upwind of us dragged at midnight and was bumping into our boat - seriously dangerous in high winds! Greg finally persuaded the owner to move and anchor in a more open area. Whew! Not fun!
By morning the fog rolled in and stuck around for three days. While the sun did show its face a bit, we still dealt with cloudy, drippy days. Greg's favorite thing to do on a day like this is hole up in a fancy hotel lounge and catch up on work, emails, blogs, whatever. He chose the
Brenton Hotel this time. A really lovely spot! We enjoyed excellent WiFI, coffee, and wonderfully low humidity!
Friday afternoon, friends Bob and Siham arrived in town. We shared another yummy dinner at the
Clarke Cooke House in Newport (our favorite). Saturday we all played a round at Jamestown Golf Club and enjoyed an early dinner at
JB's on the Water in Jamestown. After saying goodbye we wove our way through the crowded Newport streets and headed back to
Dream Catcher.
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Full Blue Moon - Newport Harbor |
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Dream Catcher at anchor |
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Greg, Sharon, Siham and Bob |
Next morning we raised anchor and headed off to Wickford to meet up with friends John and Grace. We enjoyed a lovely walk through some beautiful natural forested areas that led to the town center, where we had a yummy lunch at
Wickford on the Water. The next day, they retrieved us again and we headed out to
Quidnessett Country Club for another round of 18. It was HOT! But, we persevered, and then enjoyed dinner in their lovely club dining room. We said a bittersweet goodbye, knowing we wouldn't see them again until they arrive in January to Vero Beach. We loved sharing lots of good times with them this summer.
The following day back we went to Dutch Harbor. Good weather allowed Greg to accomplished more varnish work. Sharon went to Roger and Chrisy's house to meet with Chris and Cathy to finalize our plans for our upcoming trip to Greece together. Later that evening we all shared a really fun dinner at
Beech, a beautiful outdoor/indoor restaurant that has been in this location for many years. Recently it went through a major renovation as a result of new owners. It's a beautiful and yummy spot for dinner or a beverage.
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Sunset Dutch Harbor |
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Last day under sail |
We spent the last few days onboard in Potter Cove across the bay from
Safe Harbor New England Boatworks where we had
Dream Catcher hauled this season. Potter Cove's anchorage is large and protected from the South, where we expected wind for the next day or two. We enjoyed warm, dry air, and swims off the stern. We had time to remove the main sail and stay sail and stowed them. The Genoa is so large that we waited until we were at the marina - we needed a dock to lay it out on and fold it. We also had time enough to get a few other chores going to prep for haul out.
Early Saturday morning, Sept 9th, we motored over to NEB, filled the fuel tanks, tied up to our assigned slip and continued working through our lengthy task list preparing Dream Catcher for the winter.
We removed and stowed the genoa. Greg changed the engine oil, oil filters and fuel filters. We removed and stowed the canvas and solar panels, pulled the dingy out, cleaned it and stowed it, did copious loads of laundry, went through 3 dozen gallons of antifreeze and bagged up all soft goods. Whew!
Dream Catcher got hauled out of the water on Tuesday morning and was placed in a good location. protected from heavy weather. This was good timing as Hurricane Lee was heading that way. We drove up to Massachusetts to see friends Nancy and Ted the following day, since they weren't able to join us onboard this year. Then, 6:30am the following day (to beat Boston/Rt 128 rush hour) we drove back to NEB to assure all was well with Dream Catcher.
Once we finished last minute tasks on Dream Catcher we headed south to Fenwick Island, Delaware. We will be here for a couple weeks before we hop on a flight to Athens to spend a week on a catamaran with friends in the Greek Isles. Life it good!
Yesterday morning, we awoke after a really great sleep. Sharon was struck by how different the experience was. On the boat, depending on where you are moored or anchored, one deals with wind, waves, more waves when a boat goes by, occasional loud neighbors if you are in a tight anchorage or marina, heat and humidity, or cold and dampness (more humidity). In a house, climate control makes such a difference! And when in Fenwick we sleep in the very quiet concrete walled lower level where outside sound stays pretty much outside. Both have their attributes - just so different.
It was a short season for us. We were happy to be able to enjoy familiar harbors, good friends, visit new harbors and enjoy new experiences. Sorry this has been our only blog entry this year. Thank you for following along.
And finally, rest in peace Jimmy - you will be so very missed - and we are so thankful you lived in our time!
'Til next time -